East of St-Cyprien the River Dordogne is at its most appealing, forming great loops between rich fields, wooded hills and craggy outcrops. The 10km between Les Milandes and Domme are particularly spectacular, with clifftop châteaux facing each other across the valley, mostly dating from the Hundred Years War, when the river marked the frontier between French-held land to the north and English territory to the south.Further upstream there are marvellous examples of Romanesque sculpture in the churches at Souillac and Beaulieu, and superbly preserved medieval villages at Martel and Carennac, both much less touristy than Sarlat or the bastide village of Domme. Public transport is poor, but you can reach Souillac, Martel, Carennac and Beaulieu. Alternatively, you can paddle downstream by canoe all the way from Argentat to Beynac.
Pages in section ‘Upper Dordogne’: Canoeing, Milandes, Beynac, La Roque-Gageac, Domme, Souillac, Martel, Carennac, Beaulieu, Argentat.
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