The village of LA ROQUE-GAGEAC is almost too perfect, its ochre-coloured houses sheltering under dramatically overhanging cliffs. Regular winner of France's prettiest village contest, it inevitably pulls in the tourist buses, and since the main road separates the village from the river, the noise and fumes of the traffic can become oppressive. The best way to escape is to slip away through the lanes and alleyways that wind up through the terraced houses. The other option is to rent a canoe and paddle over to the opposite bank, where you can picnic and enjoy a great view of the village, at its best in the burnt-orange glow of the evening sun.Most people just come here for the afternoon, so there's usually space if you want to stay the night, most pleasantly at La Belle Étoile (tel 05.53.29.51.44, [email protected]; €40–55; closed Nov–March), whose restaurant serves good traditional cuisine (from €20). You can also eat well – at a price – further along the riverfront at La Plume d'Oie (tel 05.53.29.57.05; closed Dec to early Feb; menus from €34; closed Mon & lunchtime Tues), though you'll need to book ahead. Of the many campsites in the vicinity, Le Lauzier (tel 05.53.29.54.59; closed Oct to mid-June) is one of the closest, while Le Beau Rivage (tel 05.53.28.32.05, www.camping-beau-rivage.com; closed Oct to mid-March) offers the greatest luxury; they're both east of La Roque on the D703 Sarlat road.
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