Plage de la Salis, the longest Antibes beach, runs along the eastern neck of Cap d'Antibes, with no big hotels owning mattress exploitation rights an amazing rarity on the Riviera. To the south, at the top of chemin du Calvaire, you can get superb views from the Église de la Garoupe (July & Aug 10amnoon & 2.306pm; rest of year 9.30amnoon & 2.305pm), which contains Russian spoils from the Crimean War and hundreds of ex votos. To the west, on boulevard du Cap between chemins du Tamisier and G.-Raymond, you can wander around the Jardin Thuret (MonFri 8.30am5.30pm; €1.50), botanical gardens belonging to a national research institute. Back on the east shore, further south, a second beach, plage de la Garoupe, now heavily colonized by sun beds, is linked by a footpath to the peninsula's southern tip. There are more sandy coves and little harbours along the western shore, where you'll also find the Musée Naval et Napoléonien (MonFri 9.30amnoon & 2.156pm, Sat 9.30amnoon; closed Oct; €3), at the end of avenue J.-F.-Kennedy. This documents the great return from Elba along with the usual Bonaparte paraphernalia of hats, cockades and signed commands. Alternate spellings:: France, Cap d'Antibes, Cap d'Antibes, Cap d'Antibes
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