LA GARDE-FREINET, 8km northwest of La Croix-Valmer, was allegedly a base for the Muslim occupation of the Maures from the eighth to tenth centuries (though some scholars maintain that the fort wasn't built until the twelfth century). The foundations of the fortress are still visible above the village beside the ruins of a fifteenth-century castle (take the path from La Planette car park at the eastern end of the village). Today the occupiers of the village include Oxbridge professors and other leisured Brits, but it still feels that it belongs to the locals (thanks in part to the regeneration of forestry business around cork and chestnut). It also has medieval charm; easy walks to stunning panoramas; markets twice a week (Wed & Sun); a chestnut co-operative on the northern approach to the village; tempting food shops like La Voute, selling organic produce and good local wines; and very reasonable accommodation possibilities. The enthusiastic and helpful tourist office operates from 1 place Neuve (July & Aug Mon–Sat 10am–12.30pm & 3–6pm, Sun 10am–12.30pm; Sept–June Mon–Sat 10am–12.30pm & 3–6pm; tel 04.94.43.67.41, www.lagardefreinet-tourisme.com), and will provide details for all of the Maures region, including suggesting walks and hikes such as the spectacular 21-kilometre GR9 route des Crêtes to the west of the village.For rooms, La Claire Fontaine on place Vieille (tel 04.94.43.60.36, fax 04.94.43.63.76; €30–40) and Le Fraxinois on rue François-Pelletier (tel 04.94.43.62.84, fax 04.94.43.69.65; €40–55) are incredibly good value for this part of the world. The two three-star campsites are the municipal St-Eloi, opposite the municipal pool (tel 04.94.43.62.40; €5.70 per tent; closed Oct–May), and La Ferme de Bérard, 5km along the D558 towards Grimaud (tel 04.94.43.21.23, fax 04.94.43.32.33; €7.40 per tent; closed Nov–Easter). The place to be of an evening is Le Lézard bar, art gallery and restaurant, on the exquisite place du Marché (tel 04.94.43.62.73; closed Sun; menu from €20; jazz concerts held every second Sat). La Colombe Joyeuse, on place Vieille (tel 04.94.43.65.24; closed Tues in winter; €14 menu), has pigeon as its à la carte speciality, whilst La Faucado, on the main road to the south (tel 04.94.43.60.41; closed Tues in winter; €23 midday menu, otherwise à la carte from €50), is overpriced, but serves some beautiful dishes from local produce.
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