At the heart of the Massif is the ancient village of COLLOBRIÈRES, reputed to have been the first place in France to learn from the Spanish that a certain tree plugged into bottles allows a wine industry to grow. From the Middle Ages until very recent times, cork production has been the major business of the village and Collobrières is still the best place in the region to buy items roughly fashioned from raw cork. However, the sweet chestnut tree is the mainstay of the local economy nowadays. The church, the mairie and the houses don't seem to have been modernized for a century, but the Confiserie Azurienne on boulevard Koenig (9am–noon & 2–6pm) exudes efficiency and modern business skill in the manufacture of all things chestnut: ice cream, jam, nougat, purée and marrons glacés.Collobrières' tourist office on boulevard Charles-Caminat (July & Aug Mon–Sat 10am–12.30pm & 3.30–6.30pm; Sept–June Tues–Sat 10am–noon & 2–6pm; tel 04.94.48.08.00, www.collotour.com) can supply details of walks in the fantastic surrounding hills for €2. If you're too overdosed on sticky chestnut to move, there are two hotels: Notre-Dame, 15 av de la Libération (tel 04.94.48.07.13, fax 04.94.48.05.95; €30–40; closed mid-Nov to March), and the excellent-value Auberge des Maures, 19 bd Lazare Carnot (tel 04.94.48.07.10, fax 04.94.48.02.73; under €30, and €30–40 per person full board). There are also two great chambres d'hôtes: L'Atelier, Colette Brésis' ceramic studio at Les Bonnaux, 2km west of the village along the D14 (tel 04.94.48.05.92; €40–55; closed Nov–March); and Andrée Cécile's La Bastide de La Cabrière, 6km in the direction of Gonfaron on the D39 (tel 04.94.48.04.31, fax 04.94.48.09.90; €85–100 breakfast included). A municipal campsite, the St-Roch, south of the village near place Charles-de-Gaulle is open July and August (bookings through the tourist office). Camping sauvage is forbidden; one stray spark and you could be responsible for a thousand acres of burnt forest. For food other than chestnuts, the restaurant La Petite Fontaine, 6 place de la République (tel 04.94.48.00.12; closed Sun evening & Mon), is congenial and affordable, but books up fast. If you want to buy some local wines, visit Les Vignerons de Collobrières close to the Hôtel Notre-Dame. Local market days are Thursday and Sunday. Hidden in the forest, 12km from Collobrières off the D14 towards Grimaud, is the ruin of a huge twelfth-century monastery, La Chartreuse de la Verne (daily except Tues: Jan–May, Oct & Dec 11am–5pm; June–Sept 11am–6pm; closed Nov; €5), abandoned at the time of the Revolution. Though now much restored, it still retains its desolate atmosphere. Alternate spellings:: France, Collobrières, Collobrières, Collobrieres
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