The Atlantic coast between the Bassin d'Arcachon and the Gironde has a wild, undeveloped feel and despite its proximity to Bordeaux and Arcachon, is seldom crowded. No motorable road follows the coast for most of the way, which contributes to the relaxed nature of the place; instead a cycle path, built at the end of World War II, winds through more than 75km of pine-forested dunes from the low-key holiday village of Cap Ferret to the resort of Soulac in the north, from where trains run through the Médoc vineyards to Bordeaux or to the Pointe de Grave and Verdon for the ferry to Royan. Apart from the occasional surf shack or beach restaurant, the only settlement of any size is Lacanau-Ocean, 30km north of Cap Ferret, best avoided unless you're into overpriced hotels and golf courses. Cap Ferret can be reached by boat from Arcachon. Places to stay include the small, basic HI hostel at 87 av de Bordeaux (tel 05.56.60.64.62; July & Aug only) and the rather more plush Hotel des Pins, at 23 rue des Fauvettes, overlooking the ocean (tel 05.56.60.60.11, fax 05.56.60.67.41; April to mid-Nov; €55–70); 10km to the north there's a campsite at Grand Crohot, Bremontier (tel 05.56.60.03.99). For more information contact the tourist office in Cap Ferret at 1, avenue du Général de Gaulle (tel 05.56.03.94.49, www.lege-capferret.com).
|
