Connected by a mere mule track to the rest of the island (90min on foot from the nearest road), the tiny fishing haven of GIROLATA, immediately west of Scandola, has a dreamlike quality that's highlighted by the vivid red of the surrounding rocks. A short stretch of stony beach and a few houses are dominated by a stately watchtower, built by the Genoese later in the seventeenth century in the form of a small castle on a bluff overlooking the cove. For most of the year, this is one of the most idyllic spots on the island, with only the odd yacht and party of hikers to threaten the settlement's tranquillity. From June through September, though, daily boat trips from Porto and Calvi ensure the village is packed during the middle of the day, so if you want to make the most of the scenery and peace and quiet, walk here and stay a night in one of the gîtes.The head of the Girolata trail is at Bocca â Crocce (Col de la Croix), on the Calvi–Porto road, from where a clear path plunges downhill through dense maquis and forest to a flotsam-covered cove known as Cala di Tuara (30min). The more rewarding of the two tracks that wind onwards to Girolata is the more gentle one running left around the headland, but if you feel like stretching your legs, follow the second, more direct route uphill to a pass. In Girolata, La Cabane du Berger (tel 04.95.20.16.98; May–Oct; €28 per person for dorm bed half board) offers a choice of accommodation in dorms or small wood cabins in the garden behind (these accommodate two people); you can also put your tent up here. Meals are served in their quirky woodcarved bar, but the food isn't up to much. The same is true of the other gîte, Le Cormorant, among the houses at the north end of the cove (tel 04.95.20.15.55; July & Aug; €28; half board obligatory), which has eighteen dorm spaces and a small restaurant overlooking the boat jetty. Unless you're staying at one of the gîtes, you'll be better off paying a little extra to eat at one of the two restaurants just up the steps. With a terrace overlooking the beach, Le Bel Ombra is the pricier of the pair, offering local seafood specialities, including fresh Scandola lobster. Le Bon Espoir, next door, is marginally cheaper, with menus from €17 to €25. Note that neither restaurant accepts credit cards.
| 