| When Dr Johnson's biographer, James Boswell, arrived here from England in 1765, the former Roman settlement of CENTURI-PORT was a tiny fishing village, recommended to him for its peaceful detachment from the dangerous turmoil of the rest of Corsica. Not much has changed since Boswell's time: Centuri-Port exudes tranquillity despite a serious influx of summer residents, many of them artists who come to paint the fishing boats in the slightly prettified harbour, where the grey-stone wall is highlighted by the green serpentine roofs of the encircling cottages, restaurants and bars. The only drawback is that you'll find the small beach disappointingly muddy and not ideal for sunbathing (although it is an excellent spot for snorkelling). Centuri-Port has more hotels than anywhere else on Cap Corse. Hôtel-Restaurant du Pêcheur (tel 04.95.35.60.14; Easter to mid-November; €40–55), the pink building in the harbour, is among the most pleasant and has a popular restaurant. If it's full, try Hôtel La Jetée, to the left on the road as you arrive in Centuri (tel 04.95.35.64.46, fax 04.95.35.64.18; April–Sept; €40–55), whose rooms are ordinary and for the most part without sea views, but the cheapest in the village during high season. The Vieux Moulin (tel 04.95.35.60.15, fax 04.95.35.60.24; March–Oct; €55–70), opposite, is the most stylish option: a converted maison d'Americain with a wonderful terrace and attractively furnished en-suite rooms. For campers, choice is limited to the Camping l'Isolettu, 400m south along the D35 (tel 04.95.35.62.81, fax 04.95.35.63.63; May–Oct).
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