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Janus Temple in Autun : Click to enlarge picture
Autun
Whether you arrive at the gare SNCF or gare routière down the road, you'll find yourself on avenue de la République, which is bisected at right angles by avenue Charles-de-Gaulle, which in turn leads to the wide square of the Champs-de-Mars and into the old town. The main tourist office is at 2 av de Charles-de-Gaulle (June–Sept daily 9am–7pm, Oct–May Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 2–6pm; tel 03.85.86.80.38, www.autun.com), and there's an information point opposite the cathedral, at Place du Terreau (June–Sept daily 9am–7pm; Apr, May, Oct & Nov Mon–Fri 10am–12.30pm & 2.30–6pm, Sat & Sun 10am–6pm; tel 03.85.52.56.03). Bikes can be rented at the campsite and at the Plan d'eau du Vallon (tel 03.85.86.95.80).

There's a good choice of accommodation in Autun. The inexpensive options are all on the main road opposite the station: the Hôtel de France, 18 av de la République (tel 03.85.52.14.00, fax 03.85.86.14.52; €30–40) and the Commerce et Touring, 20 av de la République (tel 03.85.52.17.90, fax 03.85.52.37.63; €30–40; closed Jan; reasonable restaurant from €10.70) are perfectly decent. For something a bit quieter and more characterful, try one of the old coaching inns just off the Champs-de-Mars: Napoléon slept at the magnificent St-Louis, 6 rue de l'Arbalète (tel 03.85.52.01.01, www.amadeusprop.com; €70–85), but these days he'd have to book through Best Western; the comfortable Hôtel de La Tête Noire is just opposite at 3 rue de l'Arquebuse (tel 03.85.86.59.99, www.hoteltetenoire.fr; €30–40; restaurant from €14). There's also a campsite just across the river on the road to Saulieu, Camping Pont d'Arroux (tel 03.85.52.10.82; closed Oct–Easter).

In addition to the hotel restaurants, there are a couple of brasseries on the Champs-de-Mars, but the best options are in the street behind the Hôtel de Ville: Le Chalet Bleu, 3 rue Jeannin (tel 03.85.86.27.30; closed Mon evening, Tues & most of Feb; menus from €14) is innovative and distinctly classy, while Le Chateaubriant, 14 rue Jeannin (tel 03.85.52.21.58; closed Sun evening, Mon & most of July; menu from €12) offers a more traditional menu.


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