Arriving by train at the gare SNCF in rue Paul-Doumer, you'll find yourself across the river from the town: to get to the centre, follow signs for the centre ville, crossing Pont Paul-Bert. The tourist office is by the bridge at 2 quai de la République (mid-June to mid-Sept MonFri 9am1pm & 27pm, Sun 9.30am1pm & 36.30pm; mid-Sept to mid-June MonSat 9.30am12.30pm & 26pm, Sun 10am1pm; tel 03.86.52.06.19, www.ot-auxerre.fr), with an annexe in place des Cordeliers in summer. The gare routière lies in place des Migraines off the boulevard périphérique. There's a market in place de l'Arquebuse (Tues & Fri morning), and another on the périphérique at the end of rue du Temple (Wed morning).For central accommodation, try the simple and inexpensive Hôtel de la Renommée, 27 rue d'Egleny (tel 03.86.52.03.53, fax 03.86.51.47.83; under €30; closed Sun & three weeks in Aug), whose restaurant has menus from €15; or the comfortable and friendly Hôtel le Seignelay, 2 rue du Pont (tel 03.86.52.03.48, www.leseignelay.com; €4055; closed Feb), with a good little restaurant in its courtyard. Down by the river, the elegant Maxime, 2 quai de la Marine (tel 03.86.52.14.19, [email protected]; €7085; closed mid-Dec to Jan) has an excellent €33 menu in its restaurant. Just outside the old town centre, the Hôtel Normandie, 41 bd Vauban (tel 03.86.52.57.80, www.acom.fr/normandie; €5570), is part of a chain, but it's fairly luxurious, with lots of amenities. For hostel-style accommodation, there's a foyer at 16 bd Vaulabelle (tel 03.86.52.45.38), at the back of the courtyard of the Peugeot and Citroën garage, on the southern side of the ring road. There's also a pleasant municipal campsite, south at 8 rte de Vaux (tel 03.86.52.11.15; closed OctMarch), next to the riverside football ground. For somewhere to eat, try Le Bistrot du Palais, 69 rue de Paris (tel 03.86.51.47.02; closed Mon, Sun & Aug), a lively place with a changing menu from €17. Le Saint Pélerin, 56 rue St-Pélerin, near the Pont Paul-Bert (tel 03.86.52.77.05; closed Sun, Mon & three weeks in Aug), has an excellent traditional menu at €20, while Le Quai, in the very pretty place St-Nicholas, beside the river, does plats du jour at lunchtime for less than €10. Top of the range in culinary terms, is the imaginative Le Jardin Gourmand, 56 bd Vauban (tel 03.86.51.53.52; closed Tues & Wed), where the least expensive menu comes in at €39.
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