The neatly staked Chablisvineyards, originally planted by the monks of Pontigny, cover the sunny, well-drained, stony slopes on both sides of the valley. The grape is the chardonnay, which is to white wine what the pinot noir is to red: raw material of all the greatest Burgundies. To taste the wines, avoid Chablis itself: the town milks its product for all it's worth. Overpriced wine bars and stuffy restaurants abound, meaning you don't get the opportunity to taste the cheaper varieties, and there's haughty disapproval if you hope to spend less than €15 a bottle. You'd be better off heading for the co-operative, La Chablisienne, 8 bd Pasteur (Mon–Sat 8am–noon & 2–6pm, Sun 9.30am–noon & 2–6pm; tel 03.86.42.89.98, www.chablisienne.com), which offers maximum variety in a casual environment – better still, drink in one of the other villages like Pontigny or Maligny. If you want to buy a good wine, go for one with an appellation; the seven distinguished grands crus, from the northern slopes of the valley, are the best, with the premiers crus, made from more widely planted grapes, next in line.
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