Of the smaller villages further round the coast to the west, TRÉGASTEL, with a couple of campsites, including the Tourony by the beach (tel 02.96.23.86.61; closed Oct–Easter), and TRÉBEURDEN, with the seafront Le Toëno hostel, 60 route de la Corniche (tel 02.96.23.52.22; €8; closed mid-Nov to Feb), are functional stopovers. Trégastel has managed to squeeze in an aquarium under a massive pile of boulders, and has a couple of huge lumps of pink granite slap in the middle of its fine beach.The strangest sight along this coast, however, outdoing anything the erosions can manage, is just south of Trégastel on the route de Calvaire, where an old stone saint halfway up a high calvary raises his arm to bless or harangue the gleaming white discs and puffball dome of the Pleumier-Bodou Telecommunications Centre. A new pink granite "dolmen" commemorates its opening by De Gaulle in 1962, when it was the first receiving station to pick up signals from the American Telstar satellite. The centre is no longer operational, and has been re-modelled as a Musée de Télécommunications that's also known as Cosmopolis (April & Sept Mon–Fri 11am–6pm, Sat & Sun 2–6pm; May & June daily 11am–6pm; July & Aug daily 11am–7pm; Feb daily except Sat 2–6pm; March & Oct–Dec by appointment only; closed Jan; €7; www.leradome.com). Inside the golf-ball itself, the Radôme, frequent spectacular son et lumière shows explain the history of the whole ensemble, and there's also a smaller planetarium alongside. One final incongruous note is struck by the reconstructed Gaulish village nearby (same hours; additional donation €3), which is designed to raise money for a French charity working in Africa, and thus incorporates some traditional huts from Togo. Alternate spellings:: France, Trégastel, Trégastel, Tregastel
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