The best sandy coves in the region are to be found on the western outskirts of ST-NAZAIRE, linked by wooded paths and almost deserted. But it's a gloomy city, bombed to extinction in World War II, and with shipyards, in more or less continuous operation since constructing Julius Caesar's fleet, now closing. The one reason you might want to stay is the relative ease of finding inexpensive hotel space – so elusive in this area in summer. Modern, well-equipped options include the Touraine, 4 av de la République (tel 02.40.22.47.56, [email protected]; under €30), and the Korali, opposite the station on place de la Gare (tel 02.40.01.89.89; €40–55). Even if St-Nazaire is a familiarly depressing town in total industrial decline, it has one inspiring piece of engineering – the Pont St-Nazaire, a great elongated S-curved suspension bridge over the mouth of the Loire. Driving across it incurs a heavy toll, but bikes go over for free.
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