The most appealing area in which to browse the menus is along the waterfront in Port-Maria, where a line of seafood restaurants compete to attract the ferry passengers. Hotel owners are very insistent on persuading guests to pay for half-board but there are plenty of alternatives to choose from if you do manage to escape their clutches. For cafés, those by the long bathing beach are the most enjoyable, along with the old-fashioned Café du Marché next to the PTT.La Chaumine 36 place de Manémeur tel 02.97.50.17.67. Set by the main square of Manémeur – technically a separate village, though it's not too far to walk around the headland west of the port – this lovely little fish restaurant serves menus from €13 to €45, with a €22.50 option featuring salmon braised in champagne. Closed Sun pm & Mon. Le Corsaire 24 quai de Belle-Île tel 02.97.50.15.05. Large waterfont restaurant, facing the ferry terminal and serving fine seafood spreads on a sprawling terrace for €13 and upwards. De la Criée 11 quai de l'Océan tel 02.97.30.53.09. Superb, inexpensive local fish restaurant, serving changing specialities every day. The €14 menu includes baked mackerel, and fish smoked on the premises, while €14.50 buys a great seafood couscous. Closed Jan, Sun evening & Mon in low season.
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