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France > Brittany > Finistère > South from Quimper > Concarneau > Practicalities

There's no rail service to Concarneau, but SNCF buses connect the town with Quimper and Rosporden. The tourist office (May & June Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 2–7pm, Sun 9.30am–12.30pm; July & Aug daily 9am–8pm; Sept–April Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 2–6pm; tel 02.98.97.01.44) is on the quai d'Aiguillon, not far from the long-distance bus stop.

The Ville Close is almost completely devoid of hotels, so most of those that Concarneau has to offer skulk in the back streets of the mainland, and tend to be full most of the time. Decent options include the bright, modernized Hôtel de France et d'Europe, 9 av de la Gare (tel 02.98.97.00.64, fax 02.98.50.76.66; €40–55; closed Sat mid-Nov to mid-March), near the main bus stop, and the Hôtel-Restaurant les Océanides, 3 rue du Lin (tel 02.98.97.08.61, fax 02.98.97.09.13; €40–55; closed Sun evening in May & June, all Sun Oct–April), a logis de France, a couple of streets up from the sea above the fishing port, with a highly recommended and far from expensive restaurant – some of the fancier rooms are in the nominally distinct Petites Océanides across the street. Opposite the entrance to the Ville Close, you'll find the spruce pastel-orange Des Halles, place de l'Hôtel de Ville (tel 02.98.97.11.41, fax 02.98.50.58.54; €40–55; closed Sun evening in low season), offering well-equipped rooms at reasonable rates.

Probably the best bet of all is the hostel (tel 02.98.97.03.47, Concarneau[email protected]; €9; open all year), for once very near the city centre and also enjoying magnificent ocean views. It's just around the tip of the headland on the quai de la Croix, with a good crêperie opposite and a windsurfing shop nearby. There are also some lovely campsites a little further on, close to the Sables-Blancs beach; the spacious Prés Verts spreads through verdant fields at Kernous Plage at the far end (tel 02.98.97.09.74; closed late Sept to April).

For an atmospheric meal in Concarneau, choose from any of the restaurants along the main street that runs through the Ville Close, or explore the lanes that lead off it. There are, however, plenty of cheaper places back in town. Worth a try on the mainland are Chez Armande, 15 av du Dr-Nicholas (tel 02.98.97.00.76; closed Wed & Tues in winter; menus from €16.62), an excellent seafood restaurant not far south of the market; Le Bélem, place Jean-Jaurès (tel 02.98.97.02.78; closed Wed), a pretty little indoor restaurant, next to the market, serving mussels for €8.50 and good seafood menus from €14.50; and L'Escale, 19 quai Carnot (tel 02.98.97.03.31; closed Sun), a waterfront restaurant on the main road in town that's a favourite with local fishermen, offering lunch menus for around €8.80. In the heart of the Ville Close is L'Écume, 3 place St-Guénolé (tel 02.98.97.15.98; closed Wed, plus Nov to mid-March; menus from €9.45), one of several good-value crêperies in that part of town, and a great spot to watch the world go by.


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