PAIMPOL is an attractive town with a tangle of cobbled alleyways and fine grey-granite houses, but has lost something in its transition from working fishing port to pleasure harbour. It was once the centre of a cod and whaling fleet, which sailed to Iceland each February after being sent off with a ceremony marked by a famous pardon. From then until September the town would be empty of its young men. The whole area was commemorated in Pierre Loti's book, Pêcheur d'Islande; the author, and his heroine, lived in the place du Martray in the centre of town.Thanks to naval shipyards and the like, the open sea is not visible from Paimpol; a maze of waterways leads to its two separate harbours. Both are usually filled with the high masts of yachts, but are still also used by the fishing vessels that keep a fish market and a plethora of poissonneries busy. This is doubtless a very pleasant place to arrive by boat, threading through the rocks, but from close quarters the tiny port area is a little disappointing, very much rebuilt and quite plain. Even so, it's always lively in summer. A couple of kilometres short of town, in a superbly romantic setting, the D786 passes the substantial ruins of the Abbaye de Beauport (mid-June to mid-Sept daily 10am–7pm, with regular 90-minute guided tours; mid-Sept to mid-June daily 10am–noon & 2–5pm; €4; www.abbaye-beauport.com), established in 1202 by Count Alain de Goëlo. Its stone walls are covered with wild flowers and ivy, the central cloisters are engulfed by a huge tree, and birds fly everywhere. The Norman Gothic chapterhouse is the most noteworthy building to survive, but wandering through and over the roofless halls you may spot architectural relics from all periods of its history. Footpaths lead down through the salt meadows, where the monks raised their sheep, to the sea, offering the same superb views of the hilltop abbey that must have been appreciated by generations of arriving pilgrims. In summer, the abbey reopens for late-night visits, with imaginative lighting effects (July to late Sept, Mon, Thurs & Sat 10pm–1am; €4). Possible places to stay in Paimpol include the luxurious Repaire de Kerroc'h, overlooking the small-boat harbour from 29 quai Morand (tel 02.96.20.50.13, [email protected]; €40–55), which serves gourmet meals from €20 up to €55; the very hospitable Hôtel Berthelot at 1 rue du Port (tel 02.96.20.88.66; €30–40); and the plainer Hôtel Origano, just back from the front at 7bis rue du Quai (tel 02.96.22.05.49; €40–55; closed mid-Nov to Easter). As for restaurants, La Cotriade, on the far side of the harbour on the quai Armand-Dayot (tel 02.96.20.81.08; closed Wed evening & Thurs), is the best bet for authentic fish dishes, with a simple €15 menu that features a véritable Cassoulet Paimpolais.
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