Though no longer on the waterfront, and subjected to a certain amount of damage over the centuries, the Château des Ducs still preserves the form in which it was built by two of the last rulers of independent Brittany, François II, and his daughter Duchess Anne, born here in 1477. The list of famous people who have been guests or prisoners, defenders or belligerents, of the castle is impressive. It includes Gilles de Rais (Bluebeard), publicly executed in 1440; Machiavelli, in 1498; John Knox as a galley-slave from 1547–49; and Bonnie Prince Charlie preparing for Culloden in 1745. The most significant act in the castle was the signing of the Edict of Nantes in 1598 by Henri IV. The edict ended the Wars of Religion by granting a certain degree of toleration to the Protestants, but had far more crucial consequences when it was revoked, by Louis XIV, in 1685.The stout ramparts of the Château remain pretty much intact, and most of the encircling moat is filled with water, surrounded by well-tended lawns which make a popular spot for lunchtime picnics. Within the walls stand a rather incongruous pot-pourri of buildings added in differing styles over the years. Until recently, these housed a number of museums, but all are currently closed while their contents are rationalized into one much larger mega-museum, which is unlikely to open before 2005. For the moment, visits consist of a brief walk into the courtyard and up onto the walls (daily 10am–6pm; guided tours in July & Aug only daily at 2.30pm & 4pm; free), though the former museums host temporary exhibitions from time to time. In 1800 the Spaniards Tower, the castle's arsenal, exploded, shattering the stained glass of the Cathédrale de St-Pierre-et-St-Paul over 200m away. This was just one of many disasters that have befallen the church. It was used as a barn during the Revolution; bombed during World War II; and damaged by a fire in 1971, just when things seemed in order again. Restored and finally reopened, its soaring height and lightness are emphasized by its clean white stone. It contains the tomb of François II and his wife Margaret, the parents of Duchess Anne – with somewhat grating symbols of Power, Strength and Justice for him and Fidelity, Prudence and Temperance for her. Nantes' Musée des Beaux Arts, east of the cathedral on rue Clemenceau, has a respectable collection of paintings displayed in excellent modern galleries, and plays host to a high standard of temporary exhibitions (Mon, Wed, Thurs & Sat 10am–6pm, Fri 10am–8pm, Sun 11am–6pm; €3). Not all its Renaissance and contemporary works are on display at any one time, but you should be able to take in canvases ranging from a gorgeous David Triumphant by Delaunay to Chagall's Le Cheval Rouge and Monet's Nymphéas.
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