The topography of FOUGÈRES, which lies on the main Caen–Rennes road, is impossible to grasp from a map; streets that look a few metres long turn out to be precipitous plunges down the escarpments of its split-levelled site, and lanes collapse into flights of steps. The dominant feature is the town's robust Château, built well below the level of the main part of town, on a low spit of land that separates, and is towered over by, two mighty rock faces. Its massive and seemingly impregnable bulk is protected by great curtain walls growing out of the rock, and encircled by a hacked-out moat full of weirs and waterfalls – none of which prevented its repeated capture by such medieval adventurers as du Guesclin.The best approach to the castle is from place des Arbres beside St-Léonard's church off the main street of the old fortified town. Footpaths, ramps and stairways drop down through successive tiers of formal public gardens, offering magnificent views of the ramparts and towers along the way, to reach the water meadows of the River Nançon, which you cross beside a little cluster of medieval houses still standing on the river bank. Sadly, however, the interior of the Château fails to live up to its compelling exterior; instead the hourly Château Tours place a rather deadening emphasis on the local shoe industry (daily: April to mid-June & last two weeks of Sept 9.30am–noon & 2–6pm; mid-June to mid-Sept 9am–7pm; Oct–March 10am–noon & 2–5pm; closed Jan; €3.51). The Forêt de Fougères, a short way out on the D177 towards Vire (served by the twice daily buses to Vire), is one of the most enjoyable in the province. The beech woods are spacious and light, with various megaliths and trails of old stones scattered in among the chestnut and spruce. It's quite a contrast to their normal bleak and windswept haunts to see dolmens sporting themselves in such verdant surroundings. Fougères' tourist office, at 1 place Aristide-Briand, provides copious information on all aspects of the town and local countryside (July & Aug Mon–Sat 9am–7pm, Sun 10am–noon & 2–4pm; Sept–June Mon–Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 2–6pm, Sun 10am–noon & 2–4pm; tel 02.99.94.12.20, www.ot-fougeres.fr). The Hôtel des Voyageurs, nearby at 10 place Gambetta (tel 02.99.99.08.20, €30–40; closed second fortnight of Aug) is a particularly Niceplace to stay, with a separate but excellent restaurant downstairs (closed Sat lunch & Sun dinner). There are no hotels in the immediate vicinity of the Château, but the squares on all sides are crammed with an abundance of appealing bars and crêperies. At Le Medieval (tel 02.99.94.92.59), which has lots of outdoor seating beside the moat, you can snack on moules frites or crêpes, or get a full dinner from €12.50.
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