The main road south from Roscoff passes by fields of the famous Breton artichokes before arriving after 6km at ST-POL-DE-LÉON. It's not an exciting place but – assuming you've got your own transport – its two churches at least merit a pause. The cathédrale, in the main town square, was rebuilt towards the end of the thirteenth century along the lines of Coutances – a quiet classic of unified Norman architecture. The remains of St Pol are inside, alongside a large bell, rung over the heads of pilgrims during his pardon on March 12 in the unlikely hope of curing headaches and ear diseases. Just downhill is the original Kreisker Chapel, with access to the top of its sharp-pointed soaring granite belfry (now coated in yellow moss).Alternate spellings:: France, St-Pol-de-Léon, St-Pol-de-Léon, St-Pol-de-Leon
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