You arrive on the Île d'Ouessant at the modern harbour in the ominous-sounding Baie du Stiff. There's a scattering of houses here and dotted around the island, but the single town – with the only hotels and restaurants – is 4km away at LAMPAUL. Everybody from the boat heads there, either by the bus that meets each ferry or on bicycles rented from one of the many waiting entrepreneurs – a good idea, as the island is a bit too big to explore on foot.Lampaul hasn't got a lot to it. The best beaches are sprawled around its bay, and, in case you should forget the perils of the sea, the town cemetery's war memorial lists all the ships in which townsfolk were lost, alongside graves of unknown sailors washed ashore and a chapel of wax "proëlla crosses" symbolizing the many islanders who never returned. At nearby NIOU, the Maison du Niou (April Tues–Sun 2–6.30pm; May to mid-July & Sept daily 10.30am–6.30pm; mid-July to Aug daily 10.30am–6.30pm & 9–11pm; Oct–March Tues–Sun 2–4pm; €4) is actually two houses, one of which is a museum of island history, and the other a reconstruction of a traditional island house, complete with two massive "box beds", one for the parents and the other for the children. Officially, it forms half of the Eco-Musée d'Ouessant, in combination with the Creac'h lighthouse (same hours), which stands 1km northwest of Niou. This contains a small museum about lighthouses, and makes a good point from which to set out along the barren and exposed rocks of the north coast. Particularly in September and other times of migration, this stretch of coast is a remarkable spot for bird-watching. The star-shaped formations of crumbling walls that you'll see are not extra-terrestrial relics, but built so that the sheep – peculiarly tame here – can shelter from the strong winds. Lampaul boasts several accommodation options. The adjacent hotels Océan (tel 02.98.48.80.03; €40–55) and Fromveur (tel 02.98.48.81.30; €40–55) both offer reasonable renovated rooms. The Roch Ar Mor, just down the street (tel 02.98.48.80.19, [email protected]; €55–70; closed Jan–March), makes a marginally more attractive alternative. There is also a small campsite, the Penn ar Bed (tel 02.98.48.84.65; closed Oct–April), and a little hostel, La Croix Rouge (tel 02.98.48.84.53; €12.20). All the hotel restaurants serve menus for under €17.50, but if you just come for a day, it's a good idea to buy a picnic before you set out – the Lampaul shops have limited and rather pricey supplies. Alternate spellings:: France, Īle d'Ouessant, Île d'Ouessant, Ile d'Ouessant
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