The first town on the peninsula proper, CROZON, is not much more than a one-way traffic system to distribute tourists among the various resorts though it does keep a market running most of the week. MORGAT, just down the hill, is a more realistic and enticing base. It has a long crescent beach that ends in a pine slope, and a well-sheltered harbour full of pleasure boats raced down from England and Ireland. The main attractions are boat trips around the various headlands, such as the Cap de la Chèvre (which is a good clifftop walk if you'd rather make your own way). The most popular is the 45-minute tour of the Grottes (daily MaySept; tel 02.98.27.10.71 or tel 02.98.26.20.10; €8), multicoloured caves in the cliffs, accessible only by sea but with steep "chimneys" up to the clifftops. Organized by two rival companies on the quay, the trips run every quarter of an hour in high season; they often leave full, however, so it's worth booking a few hours in advance.The tourist office for the whole peninsula is in the gare routière at Crozon (mid-June to mid-Sept MonSat 9.15am12.30pm & 1.307pm, Sun 10am12.30pm; mid-Sept to mid-June MonFri 10am12.30pm & 2.305.30pm, Sat 10amnoon; tel 02.98.26.17.18, www.menez-hom.com). Morgat has its own little summer-only information office in its main square (June & Sept MonSat 10amnoon & 26.30pm; July & Aug MonSat 10am12.30pm & 27.30pm, Sun 47pm; tel 02.98.27.29.49). All the hotels in Morgat are quite expensive. Appealing options include the Grand Hôtel de la Mar, an imposing 1930s structure set at the eastern end of the beach (tel 02.98.27.02.09; €4055; closed NovMarch), and the quieter Julia, 400 metres from the beach at 43 rue de Tréflez (tel 02.98.27.05.89; €3040; closed NovFeb). A flowery stone cottage near the port at 24 quai du Kador holds Les Échoppes, (tel 02.98.26.12.63; closed OctEaster), Morgat's best restaurant, which serves a soupe dégustation for €15 that's a meal in itself, and good menus from €22. With a total of 865 pitches available, campers are spoilt for choice: the best sites are the three-stars at Plage de Goulien (tel 02.98.27.17.10, [email protected]; closed late Sept to May) and Les Pins, towards the pointe de Dinan (tel 02.98.27.21.95, [email protected]; closed Nov to March).
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