If you're dependent on public transport, bear in mind that the only stop on the Roscoff–Brest bus before it turns inland is PLOUESCAT. It's not quite on the sea itself, but there are campsites nearby on each of three adjacent beaches; of the hotels, best value is the Roc'h-Ar-Mor, right on the beach at Porsmeur (tel 02.98.69.63.01, [email protected]; under €30; closed Oct–March).BRIGNOGAN-PLAGE, on the next aber, has a small natural harbour, once the lair of wreckers, with beaches and weather-beaten rocks to either side, as well as its own menhir. The two high-season campsites are the central municipal site at Kéravezan, the Côte des Legendes (tel 02.98.83.41.65; closed Nov–March) and the Du Phare, east of town (tel 02.98.83.45.06; closed Oct–April), while the Castel Regis hotel (tel 02.98.83.40.22, www.castelregis.com; €55–70; closed Oct–March), is expensive but beautifully sited among the rocks, right at the headland. There are also schools of sailing and riding. The aber between Plouguerneau and L'ABER-WRAC'H has a stepping-stone crossing just upstream from the bridge at Llanellis, built in Gallo-Roman times, and its long cut stones still cross the three channels of water (access off the D28 signposted "Rascoll"), and continue past farm buildings to the right to "Pont du Diable". L'Aber-Wrac'h itself is a promising place to spend a little time. It's an attractive, modest-sized resort, within easy reach of a whole range of sandy beaches and a couple of worthwhile excursions. Beyond the town's little strip of bars and restaurants, the Baie des Anges stretches away towards the Atlantic, with the only sound the cry of seagulls feasting on the oyster beds. At the start of the bay, the irresistible Hôtel la Baie des Anges, 350 route des Anges (tel 02.98.04.90.04, www.baie-des-anges.com; €70–85; closed Jan & Feb), makes a peaceful and exceptionally comfortable place to stay. The best local restaurant, Le Brennig (tel 02.98.04.81.12; closed Tues, plus Oct & Feb), is back at the other end of town. At the small harbour of PORTSALL, 5km along the coast from the far side of the next aber, l'Aber-Benoît, the Espace Amoco Cadiz commemorates a defining moment in local history (daily 9.30am–1pm & 2.30–7pm; free): on March 17, 1978, the sinking of the Amoco Cadiz supertanker resulted in an oil spill that devastated 350km of the Breton coastline, and threatened to ruin the local economy. Displays and films document not only the immense task of cleaning up the mess, but also the long legal battle to obtain compensation from the "multinational monster" responsible. Five kilometres west of Portsall is TRÉMAZAN, whose ruined castle was the point of arrival in Brittany for Tristan and Iseult. From here a beautiful corniche road leads further along the coast. Odd little chapels dot the route, and the views of sea and rocks are unhindered before turning inland just before Le Conquet.
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