You need to get an early start from Poitiers if you want to make a single day-trip by public transport to see both Chauvigny and St-Savin, which is scarcely more than a hamlet in comparison with bustling Chauvigny.The bus sets you down beside the abbey near the modern bridge over the poplar-lined River Gartempe; walk downstream a little way to the medieval bridge for a perfect view of the abbey church, now listed as a UNESCO monument of universal importance (Jan & Dec Sat & Sun 9am–5pm; Feb–Sept daily 9am–5pm; Oct & Nov daily 2–5pm). Built in the eleventh century, possibly on the site of a church founded by Charlemagne, it rises strong and severe above the gazebos, vegetable gardens and lichened tile roofs of the houses at its feet. Inside, steps descend to the narthex and from there to the floor of the nave, stretching out to the raised choir: high, narrow, barrel-vaulted and flanked by bare round columns, their capitals deeply carved with interlacing foliage. The whole of the vault is covered with paintings, and, though colours are few, they're full of light and grace, depicting scenes from the stories of Genesis and Exodus. Some are instantly recognizable: Noah's three-decked ark, Pharaoh's horses rearing at the engulfing waves of the Red Sea, graceful workers constructing the Tower of Babel. If you do get stuck in St-Savin, you'll find rooms at the squeaky-clean Hôtel de France, 38 place République (tel 05.49.48.19.03, fax 05.49.48.97.07; €40–55), which has a good restaurant serving menus from €12.96 (closed Sun evening & Mon except in July & Aug). There's a municipal campsite, too (tel 05.49.48.18.02; closed mid-Sept to mid-May).
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