Dominating the inner harbour, the heavy Gothic gateway of the Porte de la Grosse Horloge straddles the entrance to the old town. The quays in front of it are too full of traffic to encourage loitering; for that, it's best to head out along the tree-lined cours des Dames towards the fourteenth-century Tour de la Chaine (April–June & Sept daily 10am–1pm & 2–7pm; July & Aug daily 10am–7pm; Oct–March daily except Tues 10am–12.30pm & 2–5.30pm; June–Sept €3.81, otherwise free), so called because of the heavy chain that was slung from here across to the opposite tower, Tour St-Nicolas, to close the harbour at night. Today the only night-time intruders are likely to be yachties from across the Channel, whose craft far outnumber the working boats – mainly garishly painted trawlers. Beyond the tower, steps climb up to rue Sur-les-Murs, which follows the top of the old sea wall to a third tower, the Tour de la Lanterne or Tour des Quatre Sergents, named after four sergeants imprisoned and executed for defying the Restoration monarchy in 1822 (same times and prices as at Tour de la Chaine). There's a way up onto what's left of the city walls, planted with unkempt greenery. Beyond is the beach, backed by casino, hot-dog stands and amusement booths, along with an extensive, truly beautiful belt of park that continues up the western edge of the town centre and along the avenue du Mail behind the beach, where the first seaside village was built by the Rochelais rich.
|
