Angoulême is easily accessible by train from Cognac, Limoges and Poitiers. From the gare SNCF avenue Gambetta, with the gare routière and several cheap hotels, leads uphill to the town centre through place Pérot, a fifteen-minute walk. The main tourist office, 2 place St-Pierre (July & Aug Mon–Sat 9.30am–7pm, Sun 10am–noon & 2–5pm; Sept–June Mon–Fri 9am–12.30pm & 1.30–6pm, Sat 10am–noon & 2–5pm, Sun 10am–noon; tel 05.45.95.16.84, fax 05.45.95.91.76, www.angouleme.fr), is by the cathedral and can provide route details for walks in the area – circuits pédèstres; there's another branch office outside the gare SNCF.Both tourist offices can help with accommodation, although if you want to go it alone the cheapest rooms in town are at the peaceful family-run Le Crab, 27 rue Kléber (tel 05.45.93.02.93, fax 05.45.95.38.52; €30–40), with a decent restaurant serving menus from €10.67, and at Hôtel Gasté, 381 rte de Bordeaux (tel 05.45.91.89.98, fax 05.45.25.24.67; €30–40; closed first three weeks in Aug; restaurant from €10.37), a long haul from the station on the opposite side of town. But far and away the nicest place to stay is the elegant old Hôtel du Palais, overlooking the delightful shady place Louvel in the heart of the old town (tel 05.45.92.54.11, fax 05.45.92.01.83; €40–55; garage available). Another place worth trying, especially for its excellent regional cuisine, is the Hôtel La Palma, 4 rampe d'Aguesseau, on the road leading up into the old town from the station (tel 05.45.95.22.89, fax 05.45.94.26.66; €30–40; restaurant from €11.89). Alternatively, there's a wonderfully positioned HI hostel (tel 05.45.92.45.80, fax 05.45.95.90.71), with canteen, on an island in the Charente; take bus #7 from place du Champ-de-Mars. The municipal campsite (tel 05.45.92.83.22) is nearby, beyond the Pont de Bourgines. Likely restaurant areas are rue de Genève, with a number of options including traditional French and international, and the narrow, pedestrianized rue Massilon. One of the best restaurants in the region, with a number of interesting and inventive menus, starting at €19.82, is La Ruelle, 6 rue Trois-Notre-Dames (tel 05.45.95.15.19; closed Sat lunch, Sun, April 8–14 & Aug 5–18). Le Mektoub, 28 rue des Trois-Notre-Dames (tel 05.45.92.60.96), is good for inexpensive North African cuisine, and near the excellent daily covered market of Les Halles, Le Chat Noir, on rue du Chat, is crowded with lunchers after its cheap salads and snacks. La Marine on rue Ludovic-Trarieux is a modern and airy oyster/wine bar, while Chez Paul, 1 place France Louval (tel 05.45.90.04.61), is a friendly and very reasonable restaurant with a beautiful garden; the food is fantastic, with menus starting at €10.05, and it's well worth a visit.
|
