North of Pauillac, the wine commune of ST-ESTÈPHE is Médoc's largest appellation, consisting predominantly of crus bourgeois properties and growers belonging to the local cave coopérative, Marquis de St-Estèphe, on the D2 towards Pauillac (tastings July & Aug daily 9am–noon & 2–7pm; Sept–June by appointment, tel 05.56.73.35.30). One of the appellation's five crus classés is the distinctive Château Cos d'Estournel, with its over-the-top nineteenth-century French version of a pagoda; the chais (warehouses) can be visited by appointment (tel 05.56.73.15.50; English spoken). The village of St-Estèphe itself is a sleepy affair dominated by its landmark, the eighteenth-century church of St-Étienne, with its highly decorative interior. The small, homespun Maison du Vin (April to mid-June & mid-Sept to Oct Mon–Fri 10am–noon & 2–6pm, Sat 2–6pm; mid-June to mid-Sept daily 9am–7pm; Nov to March Mon–Fri 10am–noon & 2–5pm; tel 05.56.59.30.59) is hidden in the church square.For an elegant place to stay, head for Château Pomys (tel 05.56.59.73.44, fax 05.56.59.35.24; €55–70), just south of the village, a mansion set in its own park. There are also several good chambres d'hôte in the area, including Clos de Puyzac in Pez village (tel & fax 05.56.59.35.28; €40–55) and, further along the same road near Vertheuil-en-Médoc, the hacienda-style Cantemerle (tel & fax 05.56.41.96.24; €55–70), both with tables d'hôte. Alternate spellings:: France, St-Estèphe, St-Estèphe, St-Estephe
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