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Panoramic view of the alps from the Caron summit (3200m) : Click to enlarge picture
Alpin panorama
One of the biggest headaches in Chamonix is finding a bed, especially if, as a walker or climber, you're having to sit out bad weather while waiting to get into the hills – the weather here is notoriously fickle. All hotels need booking in advance and tend to be expensive; however, there's also a fair supply of hostel or gîte accommodation. The best of the budget hotels are Le Touring, 95 rue Joseph-Vallot (tel 04.50.53.59.18, [email protected]; €40–55), La Boule de Neige, 362 rue Joseph-Vallot (tel 04.50.53.04.48, [email protected]; €40–55) and Hôtel Crèmerie Balmat, 749 promenade des Crèmeries (tel 04.50.53.24.44; €40–55). Le Manoir, 8 rte du Bouchet (tel 04.50.53.10.77, fax 04.50.53.36.37; €55–70), offers a little more comfort. Higher up on the price scale, try the ultra-swish Auberge du Bois Prin (tel 04.50.53.33.51, www.boisprin.com; €125–150) at 69 chemin de l´Hermine, with great access to the pistes. There are further hotel options 3km north of central Chamonix in the suburb of Les Praz, including La Bagna, 337 rte des Gaudenays (tel 04.50.53.62.90, fax 04.50.53.64.88; €40–55), while in Argentière, a further 5km towards Switzerland you'll find Le Belvédère, 501 rte du Plagnolet (tel & fax 04.50.54.02.59; €30–40).

Gîte accommodation can be found not far from the centre, at La Tapia, 152 rte de la Frasse (tel 04.50.53.18.19, fax 04.50.53.67.01; €40–55), which has wonderful views. For cheaper and more basic rooms, there's a gîte d'étape, the Ski Station, close to the Brévent cable-car station at 6 rte des Moussoux (tel 04.50.53.20.25). The modern, comfortable and friendly hostel is at 127 Montée Jacques-Balmat, in the western part of town called Les-Pèlerins-en-Haut (tel 04.50.53.14.52, fax 04.50.55.92.34; closed one week in mid-May & Nov to mid-Dec); take the bus to Les Houches and get off at "Pèlerins École" – the hostel is signposted from there.

Campsites are numerous, though in high season there may only be room for a small mountain tent. Two convenient sites are Camping de la Mer de Glace, less than 2km north of town, close to Les Praz (tel 04.50.53.44.03; closed mid-Sept to May), and Les Rosières off the route des Praz (tel 04.50.53.10.42; year round).


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